Oakmoss extract
Oakmoss (Evernia Prunastri) is a lichen extract prized in perfumery for its deep, earthy base note. It is one of the more potent fragrance allergens, and the EU restricts its sensitising constituents, so it is flagged for fragrance allergy and sensitive skin.
Oakmoss absolute is extracted from a lichen that grows on oak trees and gives classic "chypre" and fougère perfumes their mossy depth.
It contains atranol and chloroatranol, strong sensitisers the EU has restricted to very low levels under Regulation 1223/2009 following SCCS advice. Oakmoss is a frequent cause of positive patch tests, so people with a fragrance allergy should avoid it.
Who this affects
Avoid
- Fragrance allergy: One of the most potent fragrance allergens; best avoided if you react to fragrance.
Caution
- Sensitive skin & eczema: Its sensitisers can irritate reactive or eczema-prone skin.
Frequently asked questions
Oakmoss extract itself is not fully banned, but it is tightly restricted. Its two most potent allergenic constituents, atranol and chloroatranol, are prohibited in cosmetic products in the EU, so modern oakmoss must be purified to remove them. Oakmoss is also a recognised fragrance allergen that must be declared by name on the label.
Atranol and chloroatranol are attested contact allergens and among the strongest fragrance sensitisers known, provoking reactions even at extremely low doses. The EU’s scientific committee (SCCS) concluded these constituents of Evernia prunastri should not be present in consumer products, and EU law now prohibits them in cosmetics. Manufacturers therefore use "low-atranol" oakmoss processed to strip these substances out.
Yes. Oakmoss absolute is one of the most potent fragrance contact allergens and is a component of the standard "Fragrance Mix I" that dermatologists use to patch-test for fragrance allergy. Because of restrictions on its use, relevant positive reactions have been declining. If you suspect an oakmoss allergy, a dermatologist’s patch test is the authoritative diagnosis.
EU law requires oakmoss (Evernia prunastri extract) to be named individually because it is one of the recognised fragrance allergens under Annex III of the Cosmetics Regulation. This declaration is mandatory when it exceeds 0.001% in leave-on products or 0.01% in rinse-off products. Its presence means the fragrance contains a regulated, purified oakmoss material, not the unrestricted historical form.
If you have a known fragrance allergy — especially a confirmed reaction to oakmoss or Fragrance Mix I — avoiding products that list Evernia prunastri extract is sensible, as it is one of the more potent fragrance sensitisers. People with sensitive or eczema-prone skin may also prefer to be cautious with fragranced products in general. This is general guidance, not medical advice; a dermatologist and patch testing determine what is right for you.